A. I recommend a product called Ezeekleen. This is sold by Broadoak Timber and is used for day to day cleaning and polishing. The floor should be wax polished two or three times a year, this will help protect and prolong the finish. |
A. I personally
prefer the Granwax Granglaze for finishing floors. This is an oil modified
polyurethane and fast drying, approximately three hours between coats
and is fully hardened within three days. |
A. The
reason for the expansion gap is that a solid oak floor breathes and
will expand and contract naturally as the seasons and temperature changes.
If no gap is left the floor would expand and rise forming a bulge in
the floor. |
A. Yes,
I use oak dust and resin to fill any knots and holes, then sand them
the following day. |
A. There
are three options available to you. Scotia moulding which is a solid
oak beading. Cork strip which acts as an expansion buffer or a flat
oak beading which covers the expansion gap. |
A. You
need to have a moisture check done because if the moisture content is
too high then your floor would take on the moisture from the sub floor
and expand to it's limit then rise. A humidity check also needs to be
carried out because if the humidity is too high this would cause a solid
oak floor to cup which would spoil the overall look of the floor. |
A. No,
I always make my own threshold boards to suit each job. This will be
tailored to suit each floor and give a gentle slope from one floor to
the other. |
A. Yes,
I carry full insurance. |
A. No, when possible any cutting will be done outside or dust extraction equipment will be used. |